The perfect Parisian vacation: a local's guide on where to stay and what to do
I’m going on my fifth year in Paris, but if I were visiting for the first time—or the tenth time—here’s a guide of where I would stay and what I would do.
Book lodging in the 5th arrondissement, more specifically near Rue Monge. The street alone has more than ten bakeries—and not one, but two Eric Kaysers (a favorite of Ina Garten for you fans). It is walking distance to must-see historic sites, beautifully manicured Parisian gardens, and is home to two popular outdoor markets, Marché Monge and Marché Maubert-Mutalité. This neighborhood is quintessential Paris.
Moreover, if your feet get tired, you have metro lines 7 and 10 on your doorstep—metro line 7 brings you to places like the Louvre and Galeries Lafayette and line 10 drops you at the Eiffel Tower.
Where to stay
Hôtel Monge
Hôtel Monge is a 4-star hotel located in a 19th century building. It’s situated next to Les Arènes de Lutèce, an old Roman arena. The rooms are small, like most places in Paris but chic and modern—some rooms overlook the arena and others are street-facing. In two minutes, you’re at Place Monge (local market and metro line 7), in five minutes you’re at Cardinal Lemoine (metro line 10) and Strada Café (a delicious, hipster café). In ten mintues, you’ve reached the banks of the River Seine.
Hôtel des Grandes Ecoles
Hôtel des Grandes Ecoles is a 3-star hotel, located next to Place de la Contrescarpe and two-minutes from Ernest Hemingway’s old apartment. It’s not hip or trendy, but more old-school charm—loads of charm. You’re a quick minute from Rue Mouffetard and Place Monge and five minutes from the Panthéon, an 18th-century mausoleum.
Hôtel Monte Cristo Paris
Hôtel Monte Cristo Paris is a super chic 4-star hotel (it also has indoor pool—not so common in Paris). The rooms are polished and modern, and the hotel has a great cocktail lounge. It’s five minutes from metro line 7 Les Gobelins, seven minutes from Rue Mouffetard, and 15 minutes from the Panthéon.
Hôtel Henriette
Techncially located in the 13 arrondissement, Hôtel Henriette borders the 5th. It’s a boutique hotel designed by former fashion designer, Vanessa Scoffier. The hotel has 32 uniquley decorated rooms, with a dreamy communal terrace—a perfect spot for brunch or a lazy drink or café. It’s a two minute walk to metro line 7 at Les Gobelins.
Activities and experiences
Museums
Musée du Louvre: If you arrive by metro lines 1 or 7 at Palais Royal Musée du Louvre, take the metro entrance to bypass the entrance via the famous Pyramid. Also, buying your tickets in advance will save you loads of time. There are several lines you must queue through when visiting the famous museum: the entry line, ticket purchase line, security line, and ticket verificaiton line. Plan ahead and make your life easy.
Musée d’Orsay: While I love the Louvre, Musée d’Orsay will always be my favorite museum in Paris. It’s so dreamy, and I love the impressionist artwork. Again, buy your tickets in advance to avoid long lines. Also, the earlier you go, the better (a good rule of thumb for all museums).
Musée Picasso: The Picasso museum was renovated not so long ago, and it’s beautiful. It’s also small enough that you can digest all there is to see. And purchase those tickets ahead of time!
Musée Rodin: A wonderful setting in the newly renovated 18th century Hotel Biron. The outdoor sculpture gardens are my favorite part of the museum—a peaceful respite from the hustle and bustle of the city, and one of the best places to be on a sunny day.
Monuments and landmarks
Tour Eiffel: Lady Eiffel isn’t the same with the glass protection surrounding it, but it is always a site to behold, whether you’re standing right next to it or from afar. If you’d like to cruise up to the top, buy your tickets in advance, otherwise the line is just way too long. Alternativley, you can take the stairs, in which case the ticket line is much shorter.
Place de la Concorde: A major public square and the largest in the French capital. Fun fact: the Ancient Egyptian obelisk standing at the center is the oldest monument in Paris (a gift from an Ottoman ruler in Egypt).
Place Vendôme: This place is a beauty to behold. Unless you’re shopping at a high-end boutique nearby, there’s not much to do…except take it all in and snag a table at the Heminway Bar inside the Hôtel Ritz Paris! Try to get there by 4:30pm or 5pm for a table, otherwise you may have to wait.
Gardens
Jardin du Luxembourg: It doesn’t get any dreamier than Luxembourg gardens. On a sunny day, plant yourself in one of the green chairs or bring a blanket and plop yourself on the grass (note: there are areas reserved for sitting on the grass, otherwise it’s a no-no). If you have kids, they have newly-renovated play area that’s so popular there’s sometimes a line!
Jardin de Tuileries: Situated in the center of the city, one side of the gardens looks out into the Louvre and the other side onto les Champs Elysées. I love to go to Angelina on Rue de Rivoli, pick up a few macaroons and a hot chocolate, and walk across the street to the gardens to enjoy.
Churches
Notre Dame de Paris: While access to the public is closed after the fire, you can still stroll by the famous cathedral.
Saint Chapelle: Some of the world’s most beautiful stained glass. Get here early to avoid the lines.
Eglise Saint Etienne du Mont: This church is not on the tourist radar—unless you’re a fan of the Woody Allen movie Midnight in Paris. It’s one of my favorite churches in Paris. The inside reminds of Rivendell in Lord of the Rings.
Saint Sulpice: Located in the 6th arrondissement, Saint Sulpice is one of the largest churches in Paris.
Sacré Coeur: Not only is this cathedral stunning, it sits atop a hill in Montmartre with incredible views of the city.
Shopping
Paris is has no shortage of chic, trendy boutiques—there’re just too many to list here (perhaps in a future post!). In the meantime, here are a few of my favorite department stores for a uniquely Parisian shopping experience.
Le Bon Marché: If you’re looking for a special souvenir or treat-your-self gift, look no further than Le Bon Marché. There are higher price points, but you won’t leave disappointed.
BHV: With both high-end and middle-range-priced brands, this is where the average Parisian will do their shopping. They have everything from beauty and clothing to homeware goods and hardware tools.
Galeries Lafayette: They just opened a second store on the Champs Elysées that’s beautiful but caters to the more haute couture crowd.
Outdoor markets: Marché Monge and Marché Maubert-Mutalité (I list these two given they’re my favorite, but each arrondissement in the city has several weekly outdoor markets).
Unique experiences
La Mosquée de Paris: The Paris Mosque is beautiful. It has the sweetest tea salon and restaurant. It also has a hamam, which is the perfect spot to decompress. The hamam is beautiful and has a very local, low-key feel to it. All you need to bring is swimsuit. You can rent a towel and flip flops. The famous savon noir (black soap) is available for purchase, along with exfoliating hand gloves. Depending on the entrance package you choose, you can end your session with a massage and black tea.
River cruise: Paris by boat is beyond words. I always book through Vedettes du Pont Neuf when I have friends or family visiting and want to do something special.
Cover image credit: Hôtel Monge